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Bocas
del Toro, Chiriqui and Verraguas - Guaymi Indians
Darien - Wounaan and (formerly known as Choco) and
Emberá Indians
San Blas - Kuna Indians
BOCAS
DEL TORO, CHIRIQUI AND VERAGUAS - NGOBE-BUGLE (formerly GUAYMI) INDIANS
The Ngobe-Bugle Indian men's ancestors were the formidable fighters
the conquistadors rated among the most skilled of all the warriors in
the Western Hemisphere.
No longer the fierce warriors of yore, the present-day Ngobe-Bugle live
under the laws of Panama in the provinces of Veraguas, Chiriqui, and
Bocas del Toro. Their children attend Panama schools, but they still
keep aloof from people not of their own culture and retain many of their
aboriginal customs and practices.
The Ngobe-Bugle's chaquira was first mentioned by European historians
in documents dating back from the early part of the 17th Century. It
was quite different from today's ornament. The colors were dull and
it was not so tightly beaded... it was fashioned of pebbles, pieces
of bone, seeds, and sea shells which the Indians colored with homemade
dyes. The brightly colored beads and varied designs of the modern-day
chaquiras reflect the Indian's present-day ability to buy beads of whatever
shape, size, or color needed.
Fray Adrian de Santo Tomas, who ran a mission in 1622 in what is now
the town of Remedios, Chiriqui Province, described the chaquira as the
ornament worn by Ngobe-Bugle men during their major festivals - a sort
of emblem of Ngobe-Bugle nationality.
The Spanish conquistadors found three distinct tribes in western Panama;
each named after its chief; each spoke a different language. The three
big chiefs were Urraca, who ruled in what is now Veraguas Province;
Nata, in the territory of the Province of Cocle; and Parita, in the
Azuero Peninsula.
Of the three, Urraca is the most famous. He not only defeated the Spaniards
several times, but was the only one among the rebel Indian chiefs who
forced a captain of the Spanish Empire, Diego de Albitez, to sign a
peace treaty. This was approximately 1522. A measure of Urraca's temper
is provided by the account of his feats after Albitez's successor betrayed
and imprisoned the Indian chief. Sent in chains to Nombre de Dios on
the Atlantic coast, probably for transfer to Spain - according to historian
Bartolome de las Casas - Urraca escaped and made his way back to the
mountains, vowing to fight the Spaniards unto death. And he fulfilled
his vow. In his last years, Urraca's name was so feared by the Spaniards
that they avoided combat with his men. When Urraca died in 1531, surrounded
by friends and relatives, he was still a free man. He probably was laid
in his grave with a chaquira covering his shoulders. After Urraca's
death, the other Indian chiefs carried on the fight against the white
invaders, taking refuge in the steep mountains of Veraguas and the Tabasara
Range where the Spaniards cavalry could not maneuver.
By the 18th Century, the Ngobe-Bugle were divided into two large groups:
those of the tropical forest (in the highlands of Veraguas and Chiriqui)
and those of the lowlands (along the Atlantic coast, from Rio Belen
to Bocas del Toro). They never surrendered, fighting until the collapse
of the Spanish domination in the Americas.
When Panama broke away from Spain and joined Colombia in the early 19th
Century, the Ngobe-Bugle remained in oblivion in their mountain villages.
Slowly they are now being incorporated into the national fold. Ngobe-Bugle
teachers and law-enforcement officers help the effort. While the chaquira
remains a symbol of the Ngobe-Bugle culture, it is no longer a treasured
warrior's ornament fashioned painstakingly by female hands within the
closeness of the family circle, but a vastly sophisticated commodity
to which mass production techniques are being applied. Its production
is an established source of income for the Ngobe-Bugle.
DARIEN
- EMBERA AND WOUNAAN (formerly known as CHOCO) INDIANS
The Emberá
With an estimated population of 15,000, the Emberá inhabit the Darien
rainforest of Panamá. This tribe along with the Wounaan were formerly
known as the Choco because they migrated from the Choco province of
Columbia in the late 18th century. Both the Emberá and the Wounaan have
a similar river basin culture.
The Wounaan
There are about 2,600 Wounaan indians who also live in the Darien rainforest.
In 1983 the government of Panamá recognized the Comarca Emberá-Drua,
a semi-autonomous Indigenous territory for both tribes. This territory
overlaps the Darien National Park and Biosphere Reserve.
Defying change, the Darien indians live in the wildest, most primitive
existence ... very much as the Spaniards found them early in the 16th
century. Scattered along the banks of the many rivers that crisscross
the Darien, far from the comforts and problems of civilization, they
seem to be in complete harmony with their surroundings. Proud, peaceful,
honest, but suspicious of outsiders, they live a day-to-day existence
in which there are few economic pressures.
Ignoring government procedures and regulations, and usually make their
own laws. They are the Indians most often maligned in stories about
the Darien. Possibly because of their savage appearance, they have stirred
the imagination of the mythmakers. They are, however, more friendly
than their Kuna cousins.
Both men and women go about practically nude. The men have a muscular
frame, an abundance of straight black hair and wears earrings. The rest
of the attire of the men consists of a small G-string and a generous
coating of dark body paint made from the dye of a native berry from
the genip tree. They also use a red paint made from achiote, the orange-red
seed pod which is commonly used to give color and flavor to Panamanian
cooking.
They are semi-nomadic and dwell independently in small one or two family
groups. They build their shelters along the banks of rivers which serve
as their highways and source of livelihood. The dwelling is a platform
raised on posts several feet above the ground. Overhead is a roof of
thatched palms, the joints tied with vines. There are no protecting
walls. To reach their house, one climbs up a ladder made by cutting
notches into a pole or a log. At night, the family turns the steps to
the underside of the log to bar dogs and other unwanted callers. At
one end of the floor, which is made of flattened-out split cane, is
the "kitchen." It consists of a cement or clay platform approximately
a yard square. three logs placed spoke fashion rest on the square and
the cooking pot sits over a small fire burning at the hub. A calabash
tree provides the kitchen utensils. Scooped out small calabash are for
drinking and eating or used as spoons, though ordinarily they use their
fingers to eat from the common kettle. Another one with a hole cut into
the top and a piece of oily twisted bark stuck in the hole serves as
a lamp. And still another good-sized calabash with holes punched into
it is a colander. Long seed pods serve as graters.
Women wear only a simple knee-length sarong, their ink black hair falling
on copper shoulders, their breasts, bare. Both men and women have a
great fondness for adornments. They wear quantities of glass beads around
their necks or draped over their shoulders, and on special occasions,
flowers in their hair. For additional adornment, they paint the lower
part of their faces and their bodies, often making intricate designs
with different colors of paint.
Scattered about the floor and hanging from the posts of the dwelling
and those supporting the roof over the "kitchen" are baskets, earthen
pots, bows and arrows, spears, knives, and other handmade hunting and
fishing and household items. The baskets are made of strips from the
fronds of a palm tree which are light on one side and darker on the
other. The women weave them turning the strips and making an attractive
twill pattern. Earthen pots are slowly being replaced by "pailas," the
cast aluminum or iron pots found in Panamanian kitchens.
They sleep on the floor of the shelters. Their beds are the bark of
trees which women have made soft by beating it under water. There are
no bed covers. A wooden block serves as a pillow. There is no protection
from the excessive heat, the insects or frequent downpours, and the
Darien is one of the world's rainiest regions. The shelters are easily
replaced making it possible for them to disappear deeper into the wilderness.
Navigating their long narrow dugout canoes, they will select another
spot on the same river or another stream which will provide laundry
and bathing facilities and also serve as the fish market and water supply.
Fish are caught with nets, spears or bows and arrows. If not consumed
immediately, they are smoked and dried. The rivers also provide turtle
and caiman, some of their favorite foods. They shoot the turtles with
rifles or swim under water and catch them with their hands, tossing
them ashore. A wooden wedge is driven between the head and shell to
prevent it from getting away before it reaches the cooking pot. To save
the turtle for a future meal, it is tied near the water. The forests
furnish wild game which provides them protein food.
Born hunters, they use bows and arrows to hunt the jungle animals. The
tapir, peccary, deer, armadillo, iguana, and monkey are favorite jungle
fare. Jungle trees provide balsa for making rafts and the bark of certain
trees is used to make remedies for snake bite, skin ailments, malaria,
etc. Other trees furnish fruit and dyes for painting their bodies. Palm
fronds are used for the roofs over their shelters and the juice of the
green coconuts providesthem with "milk". They cultivate mainly corn,
rice, yucca, potatoes, yams, beans, and otoe and grow plantains, bananas,
pineapples, papayas, guavas, avocados, and other fruits and nuts. Their
diet is rich in vitamins and high in roughage.
SAN
BLAS - KUNA INDIANS
The Kuna Indians are a strongly-knit tribal society living on a chain
of islands called San Blas Archipelago, on the Atlantic side of the
Republic of Panama. Believed to be decendents of the Caribs, the Kuna
Indians still live in much the same manner as their ancestors.
The San Blas people have cleverly managed to retain their tribal identity
and contentedly lead a moral balanced life, free from the complexities
of modern, highly-organized societies. The Kuna have a matriachal society
in which the line of inheritance passes through the women. A young man,
after marriage, must live in his mother-in-law's house and work for
several years under apprenticeship to his father-in-law. Divorce is
uncommon, although it requires no more than the husband to gather his
clothes and move out of the house. The daughters of the Kuna people
are prized because they will eventually bring additional manpower into
the family.
For some unknown reason, there is a high rate of albinism in the Kuna
men. Because of the intensity of the sun in Central America, the albino
men are not able to do the work expected of a Kuna man. In order to
contribute to their community, they assume duties traditionally assigned
to the women, including mola-making. Although encouraged not to marry,
the albino men are accepted in the community and their work is respected
by their peers.
There is a traditional division of labor within the families. The husband
gathers coconuts, cultivates the food, provides firewood, repairs the
house, makes his and his son's clothes, weaves baskets and carves wooden
utensils. The wife prepares the food, collects fresh water from the
mainland rivers, unloads the boats, sews female garments, washes the
clothes and cleans the house.
The Kuna have a custom for every event and happening in their life and
these customs are passed on to their children through dances and chants.
These events are also documented in their Molas.
The Kuna language (unwritten) is spoken throughout the community, however,
Spanish is fast becoming the second language. Due to the United States
influence since the building of the Panama Canal and with the influx
of tourists frequenting the San Blas Archipelago, English is being spoken
more and more by the Indians.
The traditional dress of the women in the San Blas is spectacular. The
gold nose rings, arm and leg bands of beads, sarongs and the colorful
"mola" blouses worn in combination are a work of art in itself. The
Kuna men have adopted a clothing style more traditional to the men of
the western world and appear drab beside the Kuna women.
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